THE BEST PLACES IN JAIPUR IV

Hello,

The place IVth on my list is not exactly a place but an entire road stretch.

Site # 4 is the stretch of road from Paanch Batti to the new secretariat.
There are so many things on this road that one could virtually spend days and days on this road itself. That is if you are a leisurely traveler and not a rushed for time tourist.

Paanch Batti, is one of the landmarks of Jaipur. The four havelis on all four corners have almost similar design, although greed and commercial considerations have changed the face of Panch Batti. I have also contributed directly to the commercialization of Panch Batti by managing to convince the owners of the khandelwal House to allow UTI Bank to pur up a ATM. Great visibility and business for the Bank but poor aesthetics. But why should only I take the blame when Tholia House now has the gaudy lights of McDonalds attracting the attention away from the symetry of Panch Batti.
The Panch Batti as shown in this picture is after the designer lights were put up but before the tree on the side of Tholia House was cut down.
The tree was unique growing on one side of the most important intersection on MI Road and was cut down to allow smoother flow of traffic.
You need to start your journey from a little bit inside the MI Road, towards the Ajmeri Gate. Start with a thrist quenching Kulhar Lassi and a Samosa or Mirchi Vada opposite Niros. The taste is out of the world and you do not have the taste of Jaipur if you do not taste the stuff served here.

Once you have done that you walk down towards the Statue Circle on Bhangwandas Road and on the left see RajMandir. A Cinema Hall. Once, in 1985, this cinema had the biggest lobby and the pathway to the various classes were perfumed. It was one tourist attraction and the guide would point out the gaudy green, red and other coloured lights of the cinema from atop Nahargarh Fort. The First Cinema outing with Radhika in 1986 was at Rajmandir. It was the noon show of some english movie on a Sunday. I forget the name but I remember that we had walked out midway through it. Mayank's first movie was also in this movie hall in 1999 and he kept saying "Bada TV nahi Dekhna Hai". Till the 1990's Rajmandir dominated the skyline at Panch Batti. Now a number of shopping malls have come up adjascent and opposite to the Cineman Hall and they literally dwarf it. Sooner or later it may be replaced by a multiplex.

Further down on the same side we have schools that several Jaipurites have a strong association. The St Xavier's and St. Soldier schools fall on the left before we reach the statue circle. St. Xavier's was established in 1945 and has several famous alumni. One of them Hemant Kaul is well known to everyone from SBBJ and UTI (Axis) Bank.

Statue Circle is a beautiful patch of green and the start of a stretch of road towards the new secretariat where the temperature is lower by at least 2 degrees.
The Statue circle was a spot for evening walks, lovers rendezvous and evening snacking. Immediately after sunset every summer evening people from far off places in Jaipur would make a trip to Statue Circle and spend their entire evening there. Walking, Lazing around, gossiping and eating the chats, dosas, bhelpuri and other stuff that was dished out by the thadi walas who would appear magically every evening. The place was also the favorite haunt of the corrupt police as they searched for young love birds to scare them into shelling out a few bucks.
Statue Circle has the Statue of Sawai Jai Singh.
After I had taken Radhika to Jamwa Ramgarh on our first date and still did not want to part company we had spent time at statue circle. The grass was wet and I had taken out my handkerchief for Radhika to sit on. One of the rare chivalrous actions of my life. It was beyond 10 Pm and the thullas were already eyeing us as potential blackmail victims so we did not spend much time there.
Before this the memories associated with Statue Circle as some early morning walks from our Staff Training centre at Sarojini Marg.

A small detour to the left takes you to Birla Planetarium and Auditorium. A new addition it is built in the traditional style and gives a majestic feel to the circle.
Slightly ahead on Prithviraj Road is the entrance to the Central Park. This Park which has been developed in the last 10 years has slowly replace Statue circle and is now the fovored destination with walkers, joggers, picnic goers and lovers. A green oasis in the heart of the city it has a jogging track and plenty of space for a relaxed picnic and time with your loved ones.

Coming back on Bhagwandas road and moving towards the new Assembly building you have the Secretariat on the right and the golf club on the left. These are the two places I spend a lot of time during 2003-04. Getting Government business in the secretariat and playing golf at Rambagh Golf club. Tucked in between the golf club and the Birla Auditorium is the Ashok Club which serves fabulous meals in their green lawns. The drinks are cheap as well and my friend Julius Samson was kind enough to invite me a couple of times to his club.

The secretariat was supposed to be the residence for part of the army of the maharaja and also had stables for the horses. An imposing structure it form the backdrop of a tee shot we take at the Golf course which we hit towards the Moti Dungri (A small quaint looking castle of Maharani Gayatri Devi just above the Birla Mandir)
A walkway surrounds the golf and polo clubs that share the same entrance and the tempreture goes down another couple of degrees when you enter the club area.
Golf is one of the best way to relax and spend time with friends. It is a very good mental and physical exercise as well as it tests your endurance and intelligence. I was lucky to get the membership of this club and spend some wonderful time learning and playing golf.

Although further down Bhagawadas Road you have the SMS stadium, The Amar Jawan Jyoti (A new addition) and the new assembly I wold rather take a detour into Bhawani Singh Road towards the non existent Rambagh Circle and enter 'Rambagh Hotel' .

The Rambagh Hotel is one of the several heritage hotels that dot the state of Rajasthan. Built in 1835 for the queens favourite handmaiden Kesar Badaran, it was later refurbished as a royal guesthouse and hunting lodge. In 1925, Rambagh was converted into a palace, and became the residence of the Maharaja of Jaipur. In 1957, when it was first converted into a luxury hotel by Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II and in 1972 that Taj Hotels Resorts and Palaces took over the management.

The Rambagh Palace Hotel and particularly the Maharani and the Prince's Suite makes you feel like a real Maharaja. It is understood that Maharani Gayatri Devi continues to stay in a private portion called the lily pool just behind the Hotel.
Rambagh Hotel had been intimidating till a few probationers of the 1985 batch made a spur of the moment decision to get in and have atleast a cup of tea. This was in 1986 and the cup of tea cost Rs. 21/- for each person.
The verandah has beautiful lawns in front and a wonderful view of the Moti Dungri. The dining halls/ restaurants with the high ceilings and beautiful pictures kept attracting me to the hotel time and again and Radhika and I also celebrated one of two of our wedding anniversaries with a dinner at the restaurant. No big deal. The food is nothing special.
In 2002, I arranged for the UTI Bank meet at the Rambagh Hotel and had the opportunity to explore the entire hotel as our guests from the head office stayed there for a few days.
Radhika and I also witnessed a very special show of the 'Sound of Music' at small auditorium attached to the Hotel. During the show we shared snacks with Maharani Gayatri Devi, saw her nonchalantly handle her drinks and her cigarette as well. She was pretty old then but the operative word even then was pretty.
Rambagh hotel had launched a special bar in a train just alongside the entrance of the hotel which became a favorite haunt for me and my friends from the Rajasthan Dental college, Bagru for some time.

People who visit Jaipur should surely visit this road stretch and enjoy what Jaipur has to offer.

Happy tourism and living,
Manoj